During long, cool, wet vintage 2023 there was considerable angst about getting grapes into the winery when each was at its ripened best. The upshot was four Pinot Gris harvests to make three wines (Ego, Ramato, and Oishi). The V23 Ego is a blend of wines that have gone into two separate concrete fermentation eggs, one an earlier pick with a finer palate and the other later and broader. Full and rich with fruit purity on the nose and a waxy, honeycomb palate. Finishes like pear drops and a lick of cinnamon stick. A big, multi-layered mouthful of wine that is lush but not sweet. Ego may indeed be the enemy, but it’s hard not to feel a pang of gentle pride when the result is quite this lovely. 100% Pinot Gris from the Scary Gully vineyard, Pressed direct to tank on full solids. 100% fermentation in concrete ‘egg’ for nine months.