Swaby is our – occasionally feisty, at times quirky, always superlative – jewel in the Chardonnay crown. Some years she can require attention and contemplation, and then some she is just forthright and clear in her opinions. 2023 is the latter. Undeniably Chardonnay with notes of lime pith, candied fruit, and a spritz of quince oil with just a perception of sherbert-powder sweetness on the nose. There is incredible density and complexity here and the fineness of perfectly seasoned and intense perfume. The palate is entirely on point with juicy fleshy pear and cardamom pod flavours and then the cut through of acidic length and salivating phenolic grip. Super attractive and inviting; reassuringly self-possessed. 100% Piccadilly Chardonnay, handpicked, wild-yeast fermentation, whole bunch pressed to barrel, some bâttonage, 10 months in 25% new French oak, unfiltered and unfined, only 200 dozen made.